Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Vintage Port

Vintage Port Wine one of the most known and expensive wines in the world is facing an identity crisis. In the past its rarity and its value was guaranteed by the stability of the climate. Therefore this wine was only declared Vintage every few years. But from the middle of the last century to nowadays a phenomenon have been occurred. Producers of Port wine were obligated to declared vintages more often than usual. The global warming was giving the first signs of its presence. Some people might say at least global warming is good for something, maybe! Some experts don’t have the same opinion. There are some grim predictions for the future of South Australia’s wine industry, with the global warming impact. Last month researchers around the world reported a high increase in the amount of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere during the past two years. There are some studies being developed at University of Melbourne about the impact of global warming on the wine industry, and what they have found so far is scaring, if the trend continues there will be dire consequences. They say the quality of wine in important demarcated wine areas of the globe will be significantly reduced in long term.
Antonio Silva student at Algarve University in Portugal student of environmental ciences, said: “By the year 2020/30 the impact’s not that great, it’s between 0 and 4 per cent negative impact on quality, but looking out to 2050 this would increase to between 10 and 16 per cent negative impact on quality”
In the world of wines the Vintage Port is still in a high and deserved position. This type of wine is only declared Vintage in exceptional harvest years. But nowadays an exceptional harvest year is almost every year.
Last month the president of United Nations Kofi Annan had alerted the world for the importance of this matter saying that would be cheaper to reduce the green houses gases now than facing the consequences later.
The word vintage was created by English producers of Port wine to describe an exceptional harvest year; Although Port wine is a Portuguese Wine, its success it is also due to the bright contribution of the English people. England was the first market consuming this product and that was essential for its spreading around the world.
All we know about Port wine its styles and qualities available nowadays have happened slowly. The port production area was the first area in the world to be demarcated in 1756.
Nowadays Vineyards are graded by the wine institute of Douro and Porto, IVDP, there are six possible categories labelled from “A” to “F” and twelve other physical factors including productivity (the lower the yield, the higher the mark), gradient, aspect, soil, exposure and vine varieties. More than 1200 points out of 1680 is given an “A”. Vineyards with less than 200 points are given “F”. A vineyard with an “A” are authorised to produce up to 600 litters of Port per 1000 vines. Vineyards with a grade of "F" are normally only authorized to do table wine. About 90 varieties of grape are permitted to be grown in the demarcated Port wine region. Only 30 varieties can be found there and only 5 are considered to be of exceptional quality. These are Tinto cao, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Francesa , Tinta Barroca and Touriga Nacional . White Port with white grapes, Cedega, Gouveio, Viosinho,Rabigato and Malvasia Fina. The Touriga Nacional grape is considered by experts to be without doubt, the best grape for this wine. Unfortunately Touriga Nacional is not the most widely planted variety because produces only half the yield as the other grapes varieties. Touriga Nacional is the grape that gives Port wine its famous deep color and longevity. A Vintage comes from a harvest year of exceptional quality, and is bottled after two to three years. The Vintage wine to be recognized as a truly vintage has to mature in the bottle and it is only ready to drink after 15 to 50 years. The first vintages were declared around 1734. The best vintages from this century include 1994. 1992, 1991, 1985, 1977, 1970, 1963, 1955, 1948, 1945, 1935, 1931, 1927, and 1912. There is no doubt that the production of Porto Vintage wine has doubled in the last 50 years. why? Is it definitely to blame the global warming? Well some experts have no doubts about that. Others are not so sure. So what is really going on? Mr Telmo simoes, director of the wine institute of Douro and Porto, IVDP,is not sure about the global warming affecting the production he says: “well is true that the production of vintage has increased but I am not so sure that the global warming is to blame. In nowadays we have technology that permit us to reduce the effect of global warming, and the vintage wine to be vintage has to been created in excellent conditions, no much hot no much cold, so if is too hot it might damage the vine.” However Mr Edwin Dublin, sales adviser of Berry Bros & Rudd, Wine and Spirits Merchants in London has no doubt: “yes definitely, the global warming is the reason for that! There are vintages almost every year what else could be? But there are technologies that minimize the effects of a bad weather, the global warming it is not always good; if it is too hot it will damage the vines.
Mr Dublin believes that there aren’t bad effects on the value of Port vintage: “I believe the price of a vintage will always be determined by its age, a vintage will always be a Vintage”
Nowadays an average price of a Port vintage in Berrys Bros & Rudd with 3 or 4 years from its release it would cost between 20 to 50 pounds.
But what will happen to the quality? Is the quality at risk? Is Port wine being threatened? Are we assisting to an end of what is still is one of the best ones?

1 comment:

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